Insulating your van is an important and critical step for most conversions. The ability to stay warm or cool goes a long way toward your own comfort and safety. This is one of the most intensely debated topics for van conversions. What material, how to apply it, what glue, etc. Here is how we approached insulation based on extensive research and using what seemed like the most effective methods and materials. This is not the cheapest or most expensive van insulation method.

We will predominantly be staying in above 0° F and below 100° F temperatures during most of our van living. There are several areas in which we could have gone further to improve the insulation but for our goals, this is sufficient. Our primary concerns are staying comfortable while sleeping in the van and maintaining a safe temperature for leaving our dogs in the van while we mountain bike.

Material, Tools, Cost & Labor

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[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Parts & Material” icon=”fa-gears” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• 3M Thinsulate SM600L (50′ x 60″) – http://amzn.to/2EgDlI6
• 80 mil Noico Sound Deadening (54 sqft) – http://amzn.to/2CPveGA
• 3M 90 Spray adhesive (X2) – http://amzn.to/2CxL7wX
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[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Tools” icon=”fa-wrench” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]• Large Scissors
• Box Cutter / Razor Blade
• Soundproof Roller – http://amzn.to/2CyFiQ0
• Tape Measure
• Black Marker
• Large ruler or T-square
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[ebs_toggle active=”active” ocicon=”true” title=”Cost & Labor” icon=”fa-clock-o” icontype=”fa” iconcolor=”#ffffff”]Total Project Cost: $801.94
Installation Time: 12.5 Hours[/ebs_toggle]
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Process

Step 1: Prep

This will vary based on the van you have and the state you receive it in. No matter the state of the van, you’ll want to strip the entire cargo area to the metal. This means removing any plastic panels, previous fittings, and cleaning any existing dirt or grease that may be present. We are building a 2018 Ford Transit so we did’t have to deal with much.

We had to remove all of the factory corrugated plastic panels before we could begin the insulation. This meant removing a ton of plastic trim fasteners. We use a couple of trim removal tools from this set. It made the removal process really easy and left the fasteners unharmed to be reused later.

Step 2: Install Noico Sound Deadening

We choose to install Noico 80mil Sound Deadening mat on the inside of the van. Most of the mat was applied to the large open panels of the outer skin of the van walls and ceiling. We placed the mat in obvious locations that would help absorb vibrations and resonance that could occur in the sheet metal. To save on weight we did not apply it to every square inch of sheet metal and the performance gains of doing so would be minimal. The only locations that received a full covering was the rear wheel wells and locations behind speakers to help improve the audio quality.

It’s advised to install this is warmer temperatures so that it is pliable and the adhesive sticks properly. We choose to start our build in December 2017. This meant using a space heater to warm up the van and to warm the sheets of sound deadening mat before applying it. You can easily cut the mat with a large box cutter and use a scrap piece of plywood as a cutting board.

After peeling the paper backing off of the mat, you can apply the mat by hand and use a rubber wheel roller to remove any air bubbles. You’ll want to start apply it from one side or corner to minimize any air bubbles. The mat needs to be fully adhered to the metal to work properly and the rubber wheel roller helps with that. Be careful when applying in the deep pockets of the walls where the sheet metal can be sharp. I suggest wearing some good fitting mechanics gloves any time you’re working in the van walls to prevent annoying metal cuts.

Step 3: Install Thinsulate Van Insulation

We won’t get into the insulation debate as there are several ways to properly insulate a van (and several incorrect ways). In our build, we chose to use 3M Thinsulate SM600L. It has a decent R value of 5 and can be crammed into the various panels easily to fill every area. We used 1 layer on the roof, in the doors and behind the headliner. Where possible, we applied double layers in the walls.

We tried a few methods for cutting the thinsulate and found that large sharp scissors worked best. Box cutters worked but would sometimes just tear the batting rather than cut it. I’ve seen online people using the fabric wheel cutters with good success as well.

We used 3M 90 spray contact adhesive to mount the insulation. You’ll want to spray the van metal and allow a few seconds for it to setup before mounting the thinsulate. In some tight areas, we would stuff the thinsulate in and then peel back corners to spray the adhesive then return the insulation. This would ensure the insulation would never fall out or down into a panel in the future.

The majority of the van insulation was installed by one person but doing the ceiling would be easier if you had two people. On the first ceiling panels we sprayed the 3M 90 directly on the ceiling but some adhesive started to fall onto the floor. The remaining pieces we sprayed the Thinsulate directly and found no difference in the adherence to the ceiling.

We used a liberal amount of sound deadening mat and full coverage of the Thinsulate inside the rear doors. On the passenger rear door, you’ll need to be aware of the handle and lock mechanisms in the door so the insulation does not interfere with their function. On the drivers door,  we applied the sound deadening to the outer door skin and the Thinsulate to the inner door panel against the plastic door panel. Since rain and moisture can make it’s way into the inner door through the roll down window you’ll want to keep the Thinsulate inside the door panel plastic.

Step 4: Insulating Columns & Ribs

Our plan is to cover the columns and ribs with a foam backed adhesive foil duct insulation. This will create a radiant barrier between the ribs / columns to prevent transferring heat or cold from the van’s skin to the interior, therefore reducing some of the condensation that would form due to the differences in air temperature inside and out of the van. We haven’t installed this yet and will report back when complete. More to come…

We also intend to fill some of the channels or ribs with spray foam if we can’t get the Thinsulate into them. There are probably only marginal gains to be had, as heat (or lack thereof) radiates through the metal brackets that contact the outer skin of the van. Since I only plan to do this phase of the project once, we will go ahead and take the risk of being wrong and wasting our time.

Step 5: Install Reflectix / Vapor Barrier

Our plan is to use Reflectix as the last layer of van insulation and as the vapor barrier for the living area. The Reflectix likely won’t  provide a large bump in the R value as it requires an air gap to be useful, but it may help in the summer to reduce the radiant heat from sun on the van’s body. We haven’t installed this yet and will report back when complete. More to come…

Our Experience

Installation Process

Installing the Noico Sound Deadening is a fairly simple process. Our only real challenge was the temperature. We began our installation the week before Christmas when it was about 30° F or below outside. We hooked up a small space heater in the van so we could warm the Noico mat before applying it as well as keeping the van a reasonable temperature to use the 3M 90 adhesive. This worked well for us until the temperatures began to dip into the teens and single digits. At that point, the adhesive was having a problem spraying correctly to attach the Thinsulate.

Performance

It’s to early to give a good review on the performance of the van insulation, but early signs point to many positives. We’ve noticed reduction in cab noise while driving already and that the temperature in the van doesn’t drop quickly in the cold after turning off the heat. This has been a big help on a recent trip in 15° F weather. We were able to leave our dogs in the van while we rode our mountain bikes.

We’ll report back as the final insulation is completed and more overnight trips are completed. Stay tuned!

In Retrospect

This is an ongoing process and not a completed project for us. I can already see the improvement in heat loss and noise reduction inside the van just from our initial work. Our first camping trip out produced a lot of condensation that started to freeze on the inside of the windows (due to lack of ventilation or heater). Getting the van insulation completed and a proper vapor barrier in place is a high priority on our list now. We’ll report back as we continue the progress on the insulation front.

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